How to Spot Sustainable Textiles

Whether grown from seed or derived from petroleum, conventionally produced textiles are associated with major environmental and social impacts. The textile industry relies heavily on chemical inputs on the farm and in the factory and is infamous for employing a low-wage workforce. By seeking out the labels below, you can help to support a more sustainable textile industry.

1. Certified organic: You probably have a good idea of what the US Department of Agriculture organic label means on fruits, vegetables, and grains. “Organic” essentially means the same thing on textiles, with one main caveat—how the fiber is processed. On the farm itself, plants are grown without toxic and persistent pesticides or fertilizers. Farmers employ natural, biological methods to control pests. Keeping soils productive by managing compost and rotating crops is also key to organic production. Genetically modified organisms and ionizing irradiation are prohibited in organic production. Once organic fibers leave the farm and are processed into textiles, however, there are no further restrictions. To avoid harsh processing chemicals, ask the manufacturer what processing chemicals, if any, it uses.
2. Transitional fiber: This label is a general claim that fibers are grown using organic practices, but grown on land used for conventional (nonorganic) production fewer than 3 years ago. The US Department of Agriculture says any land that’s being converted from conventional to organic production must undergo a 3-year transition period. But neither the department nor any other entity officially certifies this label. Any type of finishing chemical can be used in processing transitional cotton fibers.
3. Green cotton: Labeling cotton “green” implies that the cotton was grown conventionally but wasn’t treated with bleach, dyes, or formaldehyde. Since no independent agency certifies this claim, it’s only the manufacturer’s word.
4. Recycled fiber: More textiles are being labeled “recycled,” which means the same thing as it does on paper or plastic products. Today you can find textiles in home furnishings and apparel that are made from recycled plastic and recycled cotton. The more recycled content, the better. The claim is a voluntary one that’s not independently certified.
5. Fair-trade certified: This is an anti-sweatshop label for textiles. It means that farmers and workers in developing countries are guaranteed a minimum price for their products. Crops are grown using conservation measures that restrict the use of agrochemicals. While the term “fair trade” is commonly used in the textile world, it carries the most credibility when it’s certified by the Fairtrade Labelling Organization or one of its member groups. www.fairtrade.net